Selection & ranking of men's watches: Buy or Not, You Should Know Them ⋆ China Life & Buying Guide

There is no denying that we are all social beings. And the three most important things for men in today’s society are recognized as: a house, a car and a watch.

A house, which is undoubtedly the biggest asset of most people，nonetheless, can’t be carried with you. And you don’t like to take people to your house casually unless they are your close friends or relatives.

A car is easier to be carry out. But consider about the inconvenience due to the traffic restrictions and the huge consumption spending on the parking spaces, it isn’t cost-effective to buy a superior car which will cost you more than four hundred thousand Yuan.

As for watches, they are almost losing their own functional requirement. But it’s exactly the romantic vision without utilitarianism that makes the watches become a symbol for mature men to show their savor. Anyway, we all know that the expensive but useless things are usually the most attractive.

After evaluating through thousands of years, the watch industry has developed to a very high level. Then how to choose the most fitful ones from numerous wrist watches？After reading this article, you will know that.

Ah，there is a friend asking:“Since it’s enough to know time by using my mobile phone, why do I need a watch？”It’s exactly that more and more young men have entered the “Empty wrist Era” ，but I still want to say:“You can choose not to buy one,but you must know something about them.”It’s very necessary to take a few seconds to know the savor and behavior styles of your new friends、bosses、and important customers through the wrist watches they are wearing, since the watch is men’s identity symbol which is most frequently used.

The second part: The general summary of picking your watches.

I wish you can remember, the most important thing is to understand what kind of watches you are eagering for, while the brands and prices are just references.

The super:

Being traded at auctions between European royalties and billionaires in different countries, being collected by the Forbidden City, Le Louvre Museum and other top museums, the super watch is a legend which can be seen occasionally for most of us.

The superior:

There we are talking about the “ordinary” watches represented by Patek Philippe. I use “ordinary” just because you can buy one without identification（such as you are a queen’s knighthood or anymore）.In other words, this is the lowest level wrist watch you can buy with money. Although using price to judge a watch is slightly vulgar, each of these watches

Although using price to judge a watch is slightly vulgar, each of these watches’ price is more than one hundred thousand Yuan, but less than three hundred thousand dollars or two million Yuan. It’s not wise to pursue for it if the price is higher than this.

The quasi superfine:

Actually, it’s a controversial region, even a lot of old players think it’s a mechanical application.(Similar to the concept of light luxury.)But the region is defined by two big wrist watch brands. Starting place:ROLEX;The end:PATEK PHILIPPE. Although ROLEX also have some shining luxury such as Sky Star or a variety of enduring aution,but the water ghost series which take root in people’s hearts make ROLEX unqualified to take its place in the higher circles. So it’s also destined to ROLEX only at one-level, rather than a must.

The fifth part: The quasi superfine.

It’s basically the ultimate goal of most watch buyers at the quasi-level. Or, conversely, it’s the best watch we can met in our daily lives.

The current model, of course, is the IWC Portugal 7. In fact, the so-called Portugal 7 is short for the 7 days of Portugal, as the name implies, it can store the power of 7 days. Besides the self-produced machine core, the most tantalizing of it is the blue! The elegance of the blue needle and the white bottom, which makes the Portuguese 7 perfect for all kinds of formal occasions, can be easily held either in a wedding or a high-level business setting.

In addition, there is “an old man” at this level, JAEGER-LECOULTRE. His earth series and ultra-thin series are arguably the most tested classics of all time. Though have apparently been overshadowed by Portugal in recent years, they still won’t be underestimated.

And the quality of JAEGER’s intricate watches has always been guaranteed, which also sets JAEGER up to a higher status above ROLEX.

The sixth part: The first-class.

This is the area that everyone is happy to see. It is also the area which we can see ROLEX most commonly. At the same time, the first-tier watch is basically the same as the top watch in most people’s minds, which is also the basis for ROLEX to dominate the area.

Of course, the most common ROLEX are still some of the most classic entry-level watches.

Black Water Ghost is the most “stable” among them. In other words, if you don’t know which ROLEX to buy, buy a Black Water Ghost! (In recent years, however, the Greenish Ghosts seems to be more and more popular, for we’d better wear some green clothes or others to make a self-mockery.)

Actually, there will be friends who feel unfair for ROLEX. After all, as established companies, ROLEX also produces a variety of flagship models, such as the DE Nantong.

But the success and failure are both for the same reason. It is because ROLEX’s long-tested signature, the Oyster, has made ROLEX’s watch a little thick, which was in full mechanical and senior feeling .But now it cannot keep up with the “Less is More” minimalist fashion. Among Chinese, the big bosses’ support was more important for the popularity of ROLEX. How to judge one’s status in chaos ,especially in old Hong Kong where the good and bad mixed together ?Having a ROLEX is better than thousands of words. This culture has been for decades, leading the construction workers who were at the bottom of the city, the deliverymen and waiters to chase for a ROLEX.

Because of it’s solid quality, maintenance-free ,the adaption to all kinds of harsh environment, and the age-old brand , more and more underlying labors with average monthly salary of 16000 Yuan in Hong Kong became the ROLEX’s users. However, on the contrary, it reduced the brand’s value.

Is there a way to solve this problem? Probably not. The same story is repeated over and over at Louis Vuitton and the iPhone: a high-functioning, reasonably priced, high-pitched, high-value product, can’t always be lofty. So, the feeling touches us more and more that the Louis Vuitton and the iPhone are just so so. ROLEX? So it is.

ROLEX watches are still hard currency and durable products beyond their appearances. So I’d like to say that again:“if you don’t know which ROLEX to buy, choose a Black Water Ghost!”

And when it refers to the first-class wrist watches which also combine with functionality and durability , you can’t miss PANERAI.

PANERAI is also focused on the design of the submersible table, with Italian roots and Swiss watchmaking techniques, which can be said to be unique. And the iconic, domineering dial was very popular in the last few years.

Besides, the simplified version of the quasi – scale wristwatch, still belongs to the first-class watch, and can be adapted to different occasions. IWC’s Portugal’s meter , for example, has slightly lower positioning and configuration than the Portuguese 7, which is the best example: To make a comparison, Portugal’s meter uses ETA core, has no calendar function and has no back penetration. But the most classic elegant designs and blue needles are all intended to be retained. So it’s still very much worth to buy one and use it as the main table.

Another essential brand is the Glashutte which is very popular recently .

And the Glashutte Original SENATOR, which can be said neither simple or overcomplicated, is steady and dignified.

It is no wonder that many watch fans have said that Portugal’s meter and Portugal 7 are suitable for young people ,while SENATOR is suitable for elder people. Although this conclusion is somewhat arbitrary, it’s also reasonable, and can be used in the dilemma of the two choices.

The seventh part: The second-class.

They have the common point: all of them are tested old brand, but are generally considered inferior to ROLEX.

For example, the classic Omega;

And even the customization 007 which is influenced by James Bond .

The lower prices, the legend of historic celebrities, the gorgeous workmanship and ingredients make Omega very important in customers’ heart. Even many of them believe that people who buy a ROLEX are more likely to be attracted by their fame, while wearing an Omega can actually prove one’s good taste.

And wristwatches at this level , since can be taken out to be compared, they are surely have their special advantages. Besides Omega, RADO, as an established manufacturer with a high reputation in China, is also extremely popular with its “ultra-thin and wear-resistant ceramics”.

RADO’s full ceramic table is the symbol of its brand.

An interesting detail is, some time ago I attended a formal dinner. The boss in attendance is a academism, at the same time is an entrepreneur with billions, and he wore this watch. With simple scale mark and a silver needle, the pure black standard configuration and watch band are perfectly formed. It is very low-key, but this kind of fine ceramic has unique reflection of light, and let the careful persons instantly understand its value. I have to say that this watch is a great match for the outstanding man.

But I have to say, the brand management of RADAR table, actually still very unsatisfactory. In other words, I don’t recommend you to buy fashion tables around one thousand Yuan except for RADO’s full ceramic table. Because at that level, there are many more suitable watches worthy .

NOMOS, which has reemerged in recent years, is more interesting. Minimalist Bauhaus design, enough good quality of movements and materials, coupled with the price at the range of 10000-20000 Yuan, makes NOMOS much more promising than RADO ,though it’s not able to create a real threat to Omega,

It also has the hot type of white background and a blue needle;

And other colors are also very comfortable. Matching a belt or a NATO belt is perfectly OK.

At this level, there are relatively unfocused brands, such as the TUDOR which follows the ROLEX, the old-school

LONGINES, the TAG Heuer which has the racing culture, and so on. Because the attention to them is not high, I’m no more talk about the details. If you are interested in them, you can chat with me in the comments section.

The eighth part: The third-class.

Now we are talking about the most interesting range of watches. And at this price, the choices are too many! So it’s better to consider what we like rather than which brand is better.

Casio’s OCEANUS, for example, just covers this range. Do you need a dial with wavy waves? Is it worth thousands of dollars? There are obviously no standard answers. But all of the virtues shared by the OCEANUS are almost entirely preserved: the acme of functional wristwatches (it’s durable and precise. It also has unlimited energy storage and pretty appearance.)

Casio’s OCEANUS is one of the best examples of this range.

Not a joke, it’s really important for a watch to have a pretty appearance and a good functionality. Some compromises must be made at the lower price.

By the way, a little tip I’d better give for you, even if the OCEANUS has high quality, it also cannot be wore to the bathroom!

This is really an interesting phenomenon all the time. The sea god is safe and sound everywhere except for the bathroom. Presumably because people are not willing to buy more expensive watches, and don’t care cheap ones. And the OCEANUS itself is too solid, so it’s not surprising that it often be destructed in the bathroom.

When it comes to Casio, it is inevitable to think of

CITIZEN. Although they are mainly competing at lower levels , the flagships are at a similar price.

The ATTESA series, endorsed by Mr. Li ka-shing, is best known in CITIZEN’s flagships.

As a big seller of PP and a collector, Mr. Li also truthfully said:“ Because I am Li ka-shing, I no longer need high price to show off. A punctual and durable CITIZEN is enough. The kinetic energy and the airwaves watches don’t be took off when I am swimming and golfing, it’s pretty enough.”

Meanwhile, top smart watches are at this price, such as the Apple Watch Hermes.

I think most of friends are having the same thought with me that it’s not worth the price. But there is still no denying that the watch has its personal advantages.

Hamilton, a very popular, pragmatic and reliable brand recently.

It has ETA’s core, waterproof settings, a rugged style. And it’s price is far below the price of ROLEX, PANERAI and OMEGA. It’s a relatively niche brand, but it does make people love it.

For example, the representative Navy series

However, the oversize dial is not a good idea for everyone. It is better to measure your own twist before you want to get it.

By contrast, the 38mm of the “Field” series is fitful for more customers. The commonality of the wrist watches at this level has been mentioned above——the distinctive characteristics , the guaranteed quality, and a lot of main items which are suitable for daily wear. It’s no wonder that even li ka-shing chooses his watches in this range.

The ninth part: The entertainment-class.

This is not to say that there are any big problems with the wristwatches here, but that the buyers are not likely to be able to get more functionality. For example, starting with an entry-level Apple Watch is certainly OK, but it’s impossible to ask for a high-end band like Hermes. At the same price, Suunto has more movement functions and better reliability, but the app’s support is certainly not as rich as the Apple Watch. So how to choose, just depends on individual needs.

So how do you choose a wrist watch at this level?

The first is to relax. This level of wristwatch, if not the G-SHOCK or other watches that are similar to G-SHOCK , you will change it at the same frequency with your phone. Follow your own intuition, if you think it looks good, and the function is enough, just get it!

Like my first CITIZEN light kinetic energy, after the third battery damaged, it could just show time, the small dials didn’t have any function. But the three small dials were still handsome for a high school student like me .

Still a little do not know how to start? Let’s take a look at the popular brands in this range:

The Air Eagle in CITIZEN is the most popular at this level. After all, which boy doesn’t have the dream of becoming a pilot?

The watch which has dense numbers, various small dials, and the flagship models with LED ,is so versatile and professional. It is also very convenient to storage energy automatically and auto – to – time. The overall appearance plus function are enough for it to dominate the consumption range between the ages of 14 to 40.And it is very suitable to have it as your first wristwatch. To buy it for children or relatives, the price around 2,000 makes it also a good choice.

Casio 5610

Having the solar energy, airwaves, waterproof, plus G-SHOCK’s classic square screen and a good price of 500 Yuan, Casio’s 5610 is competing with the Air Eagle for many years. The 80s generation’s big favor on the G-SHOCK and the moderate price make it competitive. In other words, a good 5610 May be the best option if you just want to buy a useful watch. There are also more attractive anti-displays and metal bands models to upgrade.

Of course, the 5610 is certainly not perfect, which often be criticized for its regular plastic strap that broken in only one year. And I am afraid the most important is that the 5610-classic modeling has been out of style. The DW watch that accords with the current aesthetic was produced, and has achieved great success. Extremely simple design, all kinds of bright band, proven quartz core, plus the right price make it a big hit in recent years. Also, it’s easy to go with your partner.

Although the wristwatch circle was initially dismissive of DW, thinking it was not a very serious business choice to make a story to make money. However, the huge success of the market has also led a lot of “archaic” friends began to re-examine their mind. After all, ROLEX doesn’t as punctual as DW ,but it’s much heavier, and most importantly, much more expensive.

After all, not every consumer will seek for the type of machine cores, and how many years the watch has been inherited. They Just try to find a watch to match their clothes.

The popularity of smart watches in recent years has also made the wearable devices such as the Apple Watch a new force. It’s punctual and vogue, sometimes can be waterproof. It’s really a good daily use watch. But what kind of smart watch can solve the two major difficulties of charging and slow response? There seems to be no mature solution yet.

The first generation of the Apple Watch attracted many buyers, the second has been decimated, while there were few persons who chose the third generations. In general, smart watches are more useful when we are having a heart rate detection or recording the number of steps.

So while the entertainment level has a lot of watches, there are four brands primarily : the Eagles of the Air, 5610, DW and Apple Watch.

Or it’s more functional and looks professional.

Or It’s durable and looks very pragmatic;

Or it’s good looking and stylish, which can match your clothes easily.

Or it’s trendy and fit for sports.

So having read all of these, you definitely have known how to choose a watch, haven’t you?

The tenth part: The summary and the purchased advise.

Thank you for reading, now let’s make a summary.

Super curiosities, we can’t afford it. If you can, we don’t need to read this article, right?

If your budget is unlimited, I will recommend the widely acclaimed PP. Of course, if you want to be cool, the Hublot is also a good choice.

In the hope of getting a niche classic with moderate budget, IWC’s Portugal 7 is surely the best choice, so is the Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Geophysic. And the IWC Portugal’s meter, the Glashütte Origina SENATOR, and the Panera are also good choices.

If they are not fit for you, choose the Black Water Ghost, then you won’t need to buy a watch again. “Once and for all” is not a joke.

If you feeling ROLEX isn’t cost-effective(or maybe your boss is wearing one?). The Omega , RADO all-ceramic and NOMOS are also great and personal choices.

If you think you just need a wrist watch that looks good and durable, and you don’t care about the machine and the brand story, the Casio Oceanus, the CITIZEN ATTESA are seem to be the best choices!

If you still feel that it’s not necessary to spend thousands Yuan buying a watch just for knowing the time, then choose one you like in recreational level.

Let me quote Mr. Li ka-shing’s words as the end of this article: “I never need a very punctual watch, because my watch is always half an hour faster than others. So everyone will say, Mr. Li, you have such a good memory that you are never late. Actually, the reason why I am always punctual isn’t that I have a good memory, but in Hong Kong half an hour is enough for me to go anywhere.”

So I think it’s not the ultimate goal of the wristwatch to be punctual. To seek for the joy;to increase the confidence; to talk it with your relatives and friends, each of them can be a reason for us to buy a new watch.

Finally, even if we don’t wear a watch, to know something about it, or to seek for the reasons why others choose their watches is also good for you.